Let’s face it, we’re more freshwater sailors than ocean cruisers… But we love sailing and boating vacations, for all the fun and freedom they represent on the water. So when the opportunity came to join my brother on his sailboat, we didn’t hesitate. Especially since he’s got his sea legs after crossing the Atlantic!
After our first week in Martinique, we’re off for a 10-day cruise in the warm waters of Belize ⛵
Why sail in Belize?
Located between Mexico and Guatemala, on the edge of the Caribbean Sea, Belize is a small country brimming with treasures. On a previous trip, we discovered the tropical forests, Mayan sites and idyllic beaches of Ambergris Caye. This time, we’re off the coast of Belize to discover the cayes, heavenly islets dotted along the world’s second largest barrier reef.
➜ Feel like exploring Ambergris Caye? I tell you about it here:“Belize | Unforgettable getaway on Ambergris Caye, the most beautiful island in the world“
➜ To read about our first stay in Belize, click here:“Belize | 6 must-do activities for a total change of scenery“
Easy navigation
Belize is not one of the most popular Caribbean destinations for sailing vacations. And yet, with its subtropical climate and picture-postcard landscapes, it’s a real paradise for sailing enthusiasts.
Easy sailing conditions (steady easterly trade winds blowing at 10 to 20 knots and low swell between the coast and the barrier reef), short islet-to-islet crossings, low tidal range (30 to 60 centimeters) and calm palm-fringed anchorages make this an ideal destination for family cruises.
Breathtaking anchorages
Approximately 1,000 kilometers long, the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bordering the coasts of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras. Most of the reef is protected by the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System, which covers 960 square kilometers and includes 3 atolls (Turneffe, Lighthouse and Glover), 7 marine reserves (Blue Hole, South Water Caye Marine Reserve, Hol Chan Marine Reserve) and some 450 cays.
A caye (or key) is a small low-lying island formed by tidal and wind action and the gradual accumulation of coral and sand debris on reefs. Mainly used in the West Indies, the term is also found in Florida (the Keys) and Australia.
UnlikeAmbergris Caye and Caye Caulker, which are overrun by tourists, most of Belize’s cays are little visited, as they are often uninhabited and difficult to access. Their white sandy beaches, lined with coconut palms or covered in mangroves, provide the backdrop for sheltered, secluded anchorages with little competition. Protected from heavy swells by the coral reef, the calm waters are ideal for swimming and scuba diving.
➜ C oral reefs and sandbanks can, however, make navigation difficult in shallow waters. It’s best to be accompanied by an experienced skipper, especially as the Belize authorities reserve the right to charge damages to anyone who hits or damages a reef.
When to sail in Belize
While the warm waters of Belize are pleasant to sail all year round, the season is sweltering and rainy from June to October. Between September and October, the area can also be swept by tropical storms, or even cyclones.
From November to February, the season is cooler thanks to the northeast trade winds, but strong gales (northers) can be dangerous and make many anchorages uncomfortable.
The best time to sail in Belize is during the dry season, between February and May.
➜ At the height of the tourist season, boat rentals are in high demand. To benefit from the best rates and to make sure you still have a choice, it ‘s best to book at least 6 months in advance, or even a year in advance for the Christmas and New Year period.
What type of boat to choose in Belize?
When it comes to choosing a boat for sailing in Belize, several factors need to be taken into account, such as the type of activities you plan to do, the number of people on board, your level of sailing experience and your budget.
- Sailboats are popular for sailing in Belize due to their smooth sailing characteristics and ability to take advantage of favorable winds. They offer a peaceful sailing experience and can be adapted to different budgets and crew sizes. Sailboats also provide easy access to Belize’s many islands and reefs, offering great flexibility for exploring the region.
- Catamarans are appreciated for their stability, generous living space and shallow draft, allowing access to shallow areas. They offer great comfort and are ideal for families or larger groups. Rental budgets are nevertheless higher.
Cruise itinerary
Belize City
We land in Belize from Montreal, after a short stopover in Miami. We spend the first two nights in Belize City, acclimatizing gently and managing our supplies. There are no supermarkets on the cayes, so you have to think of everything before you leave, and buy most of the food you’ll need for 10 days of cruising.
With a small fridge, there’s no question of letting yourself go in the refrigerated section… Water cans, fruit juices, milk, cereals, starches, sauce pots and canned goods (corn, kidney beans, chickpeas, lentils) make up the bulk of purchases. A minimum of fresh fruit and vegetables for the first meals, flour to make our bread, a few cookies for snacks, potato chips for the aperitif and we’re ready… Above all, don’t forget the fish bait 🎣 to vary the menu during navigation 😅
Once all the provisions are on board, the storage spaces are full to bursting! Good thing we travel light 👙 😂
After all these preparations and a good night’s sleep, we leave the Belize City pontoon, heading for Tobacco Caye 🏝️
Tobacco Caye
We’ve only been sailing a short time when the children are getting restless at the front of the boat. Two dolphins play in the waves, moving from one side of the bow to the other. A few minutes in their company, a magical first encounter…
Sailing continues at a leisurely pace. Lulled by a gentle swell, the children plunge into a deep nap while the grown-ups nonchalantly plan the days ahead: sunbathing, snorkeling, aperitifs, sunbathing again 😂
We bring out the trolling gear to ensure the evening meal. A few touches and Tobacco Caye is already in sight… Finally, a touch that turns into a great catch. Then a second! The fishermen are happy, there will be fresh fish on the barbecue.
But first, it’s time to put away the fishing rod and drop anchor. Checks to ensure safe anchorage. Switch off the engine and enjoy the view. Just across the road, Tobacco Caye greets us.
The sun is about to set, so it’s a bit late to take out the dinghy and explore the islet. We swap the Robinson expedition for a dive alongside the boat and a well-deserved aperitif. The fish is a success, and stomachs are satiated. Lulled by the lapping of the waves, sleep soon comes…
Early wake-up call, as always on the boat. The first cup of coffee is drunk while watching the storm passing in the distance…
After a hearty breakfast, it’s time to explore Tobacco Caye!
Located less than an hour’s boat ride from Dangriga, Tobacco Caye is a small egg-shaped islet with north-south dimensions of around 240 meters by 125 meters. The island is part of the South Water Caye Marine Reserve, less well known than the famous Blue Hole, but just as spectacular. At almost 47,700 hectares, it is one of the largest reserves in Belize’s barrier reef system.
Ravaged by Hurricane Mitch in 1998, the island has been completely rebuilt. There are no 5-star resorts, shops or nightclubs here. The atmosphere is more like brightly-colored wooden pavilions, where everything runs off-grid: no television, no hot water, no air conditioning.
At Tobacco Caye, you can disconnect, relax in a hammock and immerse yourself in the beauty of the coral reefs.
At the end of the island, Tobacco Caye Marine Station is a non-profit education and research organization that accompanies local and foreign students in experiential learning on the Belize Barrier Reef.
After several hours of stingray watching, we head for Reef’s End Bar and Restaurant, at the southern tip of the island. With a terrace and deck overlooking the turquoise waters, this spot where tourists, fishermen, divers and yachtsmen converge is theideal place to sip a sunset cocktail and sample Belizean cuisine.
Back on the boat, the children keep busy while waiting for the evening meal.
Between clouds and coconut palms, the sunset over Tobacco Caye is simply magical…
Good to Know
- Tobacco Caye can be reached by boat from Dangriga (30 to 45 minutes depending on the boat).
- Accommodation options: Tobacco Caye Paradise, The Windward Lodge, Joe Jo’s By the Reef andReef’s End Lodge. If the quality of services and prices are fairly similar from one place to another, the Tobacco Caye Paradise cabins on stilts and their decks overlooking the lagoon are really very nice 🤩
South Water Caye
After 2 nights at anchor in Tobacco Caye, we lift anchor for a short hop to South Water Caye.
The children have settled in and are comfortably seated, scanning the horizon for dolphins…
Nestled in the heart of the barrier reef, South Water Caye is known for its dense red mangroves that thrive alongside coral outcrops and rare diamond-shaped reefs called faro.
In 1996, the area, already designated as a marine reserve by the Belizean government, was also added to a list of sites protected by UNESCO. According to the Wildlife Conservation Society, “the sheltered waters and mangrove systems of Pelican Cayes in the southern zone of the marine reserve have been identified as one of the most biodiverse marine systems in the Western Hemisphere, home to several endemic species and species new to science”. South Water Caye Nature Reserve is also important for its variety of tropical fish and abundance of lobster and conch. If you’re lucky, you may even come across sea turtles or imposing whale sharks.
South Water Caye is also renowned for its ecotourism efforts and its commitment to preserving the marine ecosystem. The island is home to several research stations and eco-resorts focusing on conservation and sustainable practices. Visitors can learn more about the delicate balance of the reef ecosystem and take part in educational activities such as guided snorkeling tours and coral restoration projects.
After a few hours’ sailing, South Water Caye is in sight.
Eager to get ashore, the crew quickly dropped anchor, secured the mooring and prepared the dinghy. The prospect of a game of molkky delights the children!
Disembark in the center of the island, at the IZE Belize (International Zoological Expeditions) pontoon, an educational institute with several dormitory cabins for students of tropical biology and reef ecology. L’IZE also has a bar-restaurant open to yachtsmen, with a beautiful view over the lagoon.
While the kids play explorer in the institute gardens, we look for the perfect spot to watch the sunset.
Children’s laughter echoes through the mangroves, drowning out the sound of the waves lapping gently at our feet.
When the sun sets, there’s not a sound on the pontoon… The magic works on even the most turbulent 😍
Our budding Robinsons hold a summit meeting to plan their next explorations before returning to the boat at nightfall. Another fine day comes to an end…
The following morning is dedicated to exploring the island. Between immaculate stretches of sand, mangroves and coconut palms, we stroll, taking care not to receive a coconut on the head 😅
The Blue Marlin Beach Resort ‘s pretty, pastel-colored cabanas are spread out on either side of the island, offering beautiful, unobstructed views of the lagoon and nearby barrier reef.
At Charlie’s Bar, a swing keeps the kids entertained while they sip a cold Belikin (Belizean beer). On the pontoon, a pelican strikes a pose…
The afternoon is spent lounging by the water. The kids are having so much fun with their huge pink flamingo buoys that you can’t even see the end of the day coming.
After a day exploring the island and enjoying the beach, it’s time to discover the multicolored coral patates. South Water Caye is one of the few places where the reef drop-off is accessible directly from the beach. From the very first flippers, an incredible variety of tropical fish swim gracefully around us. A majestic sea turtle can be seen in the distance, but shyly, it quickly takes off. Lying on the seabed, several nurse sharks enjoy the tranquility of the warm waters. No matter how many times we tell ourselves they’re harmless, the thrill is there and no one really tries to get near them 😅
Back on terra firma, we once again take advantage of the IZE Belize terrace for a final aperitif on South Water Caye. Painting the sky in warm, golden hues, the sunset is once again magical…
Good to Know
- South Water Caye can be reached by boat from Hopkins and Dangriga (30 to 45 minutes depending on the boat).
- Accommodation options: Pelican Beach Resorts, Blue Marlin Beach Resort and IZE Belize.
Hideaway Caye
After 4 nights at anchor in South Water Caye, we set sail for Placencia. But before we reach the Belizean coast, there’s one last stop in the cayes. Head for Hideaway Caye!
Located south of the South Water Caye Marine Reserve, Hideaway Caye is a tiny island almost entirely covered in mangroves, preserved in its natural state by the only family to have lived there for the past ten years.
Once the dinghy is attached to the pontoon, we wind our way through the mangroves on raised wooden walkways to the building that serves as reception, bar and restaurant. Nearby, a tree house offers exclusive accommodation for up to 4 visitors. Open to the public, the restaurant is an essential meeting place for sailors who have dropped anchor in the area.
The sun makes a timid appearance as the fishermen cast their rods into the water. The day has barely begun but the evening meal is already taken care of, how efficient 😂
The morning continues with an exploration of the islet opposite Hideaway Caye. No cabin here… Just white sand, mangroves and translucent water. A desert island, a real one 🤩
Good to Know
- Hideaway Caye is only accessible by boat. If you’re staying on the island, a transfer will be organized from Hopkins.
- At Hideaway Caye, there’s just one cabin that sleeps a maximum of 4 people. All information is available on their website.
Placencia
After a final sail, arrival in Placencia marks the end of our cruise in Belizean waters.
Bordered on one side by a mangrove lagoon and on the other by the Caribbean Sea, the Placencia peninsula is a narrow strip of land stretching for some thirty kilometers. Having the appearance of an island, Placencia is often described as the “caye you can drive to”.
Located at the southern tip of the peninsula, the unassuming fishing village of Placencia was first settled by Mayans, before being colonized in the 17th century by English Puritans from Nova Scotia and Providence Island. Unfortunately, Hurricane Iris in 2001 left no trace of this colonial heritage, and numerous real estate projects are constantly springing up on the peninsula, but Placencia and its colorful wooden houses have nonetheless retained their charm of yesteryear.
There are no moorings available on the Placencia jetty. So we anchor to the west of Placencia Caye and arrange to dinghy ashore near the village.
In Placencia, we take the main street, known as the narrowest main street in the world according to the Guiness Book of World Records. Approximately 1.3 kilometers long, this street is really just a sidewalk reserved for pedestrians, adorned with murals and colorful works of art.
Much more than the works of art, it’s the ice-cream shop front that catches the children’s eye. After 10 days at sea, they’re dreaming of it 😂
After this gourmet break, we stroll up and down the main street, looking for a nice place to spend our last evening. There’s no shortage of shops and restaurants. In the absence of a real favorite, we settle on a restaurant offering a little of everything. Neither bad nor excellent, the meal doesn’t transport us. Are we getting picky after ten days in paradise? 😅
Last walk on the beach… Enjoying to the end, without thinking about the end of a stay you already know you’ll never forget.
➜ Belize is a small country with exceptional flora and fauna, both on land and in the water. If you get the chance, round off your few days of cruising with a trip inland, amidst tropical forests and Mayan temples. You’ll find more information in our article:“Belize | 6 ideas for a total change of scenery“..
➜ From Belize City, you can easily take a ferry to the beautiful islands of Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye. Or you can include them in a cruise itinerary. More information here:“Belize | Getaway to Ambergris Caye, the most beautiful island in the world“.
