Essaouira | Tips and good addresses for a successful stay

Whether you’re a history and culture buff, a water sports enthusiast or simply looking to relax on fine sandy beaches, Essaouira has everything to seduce you.

In this practical guide, we share with you all the information you need to organize your stay and make the most of your visit to Essaouira.

Essaouira in a nutshell

Commonly known as the“City of the Wind“, the“City of the Trade Winds” or the “Moroccan Saint-Malo”, Essaouira is a port city on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, 173 km north of Agadir, 174 km west of Marrakech and 406 km southwest of Casablanca.

In 1506, the Portuguese built a fortress, the Castelo Real, and ramparts, which were quickly abandoned in the face of resistance from the local population.

From 1760, Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, also known as Mohammed III, entrusted the construction of the city proper to several renowned architects. Wishing to create a fortified port capable of competing with the European powers of the time, he commissionedFrench architect Théodore Cornut to draw up a plan for the town. Its original name,“Mogador“, was changed to Essaouira (“the well-drawn one” in Berber).

To encourage the development of Essaouira and concentrate southern trade there, the port of Agadir was closed in 1767, and King Mohammed III ordered all Europeans living in other towns to move to Essaouira, which became the country’s diplomatic capital.

By 1807, the Essaouira kasbah was overcrowded. Moulay Slimane ordered the Jews moved to a mellah. Merchants, craftsmen, jewelers and peddlers, the number of Jews outnumbered Muslims until the early ^19th century.

On August 15, 1844, France bombed the city as part of the Franco-Moroccan war. Following this bombardment, the town entered a phase of decline, which continued with the beginning of the French protectorate of Morocco in 1912 and the impossibility for the port of Essaouira to accommodate large modern deep-draft ships. In 1967, following the Six-Day War, the Jewish community left the town to settle in Israel, leading to a significant decline in population.

Since the early 1990s, however, Essaouira has enjoyed a spectacular renaissance thanks to tourism and its cultural vocation. In 2001, the Essaouira medina was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

How to get to Essaouira

Depending on your point of departure, there are several options for reaching Essaouira.

Located 15 kilometers from the city center,Essaouira airport (Essaouira-Mogador) is served by several airlines(Royal Air Maroc, Transavia, Ryanair, Easyjet) from destinations including Marrakech, Casablanca, Paris, Madrid and London.

➜ From Belgium, Ryanair offers direct flights from Brussels Charleroi to Essaouira, with an average flight time of 3h43.

If the flights to Essaouira are not convenient, you can also land at another airport, such as Marrakech or Agadir, and reach Essaouira by road, bus, cab or car.

The country’s two main bus companies, Supratours and CTM, serve Essaouira from Agadir (3h), Marrakech (2h30) and Safi (2h30). Ticket prices vary according to departure time and bus category, averaging €10 per person.

In Morocco, there are two categories of cab: collective cabs (or large cabs) and private cabs. Easily identifiable by their color code (yellow in Marrakech, blue in Essaouira and Rabat, red in Casablanca, Agadir and Fes), large cabs connect cities and leave when the car is full. The fare is negotiable with the driver. Many companies also offer cabs with private drivers, with fares set by the trip rather than per person. A trip from Marrakech to Essaouira costs €70 and a trip from Agadir to Essaouira €90.

Although international car rental companies are not present in Essaouira, you can still contact independent rental agencies or rent a car directly from Marrakech, for example. You’ll need to pay €20 a day for a small car, and between €35 and €50 for a car like a Dacia Duster or Dacia Lodgy (7 people).

Getting around Essaouira

Cabs from Essaouira airport are available on request. To get to the city center, the journey takes 20 minutes and the recommended price is Dhs150 (€13).

Once in Essaouira, it’s easy to get around on foot in the medina and city center, but a cab or rental car will be needed to explore the surrounding area or get to the more remote beaches.

➜ Road conditions are generally good and radar controls are very present. Don’t be surprised if you come across 2 speed cameras 50 kilometers apart! In addition, there are police roadblocks at the entrances and exits to the town, with possible checks on papers.

When to go to Essaouira

Strongly influenced by the North Atlantic Ocean and the cold waters of this latitude, Essaouira enjoys a mild semi-arid climate, in line with the Canary Current and the trade winds.

Thanks to an omnipresent wind, average temperatures fluctuate from 18°C in January to 22°C in July, and rarely exceed 30°C. The water temperature ranges from 17°C to 21°C.

Summers are hot and dry, without excessive heat thanks to the proximity of the sea; winters are mild and slightly rainy. The rainiest season is from October to April, and the driest from May to September.

For board sports enthusiasts, the months of May to September are highly recommended, as the winds are more favorable for kitesurfing, surfing and windsurfing.

Where to stay in Essaouira?

For a short stay, or one dedicated to visiting the city’s main tourist sites, it’s best to choose accommodation in the medina. For a longer stay, or one dedicated to board sports, accommodation by the beach or in one of the small towns surrounding Essaouira will do just fine.

The medina and the authentic charm of riads

In the medina, the Kasbah district to the south-west and the Chbanat district to the north-east are packed with small hotels and traditional riads, run as guest houses (booking by the room) or as seasonal rentals (renting out the entire riad, with or without household staff). Hidden from view by large wooden doors and austere facades, the various living areas of a riad are organized around a central patio, on two or three levels, often overlooked by a roof terrace.

Choosing to stay in a riad means opting for a central location, in the heart of the lively (and sometimes noisy) medina. While this type of accommodation features traditional furniture and warm, authentic decor, it’s worth noting that green spaces are limited and swimming pools are generally absent (although some riads do have small swimming pools or Jacuzzis on the roof). The narrow streets of the medina are not accessible by car. Not to be forgotten when packing 😅

Budget-wise, the price of a night in a riad varies from €45 to €90, depending on the level of comfort and the season. However, it is possible to find a bed in a youth hostel for less than €20, such as at the trendy Hostel La Smala whose rooftop offers a magnificent view of the city walls!

In our favorites list ❤️

• Dar al fan, a haven of peace offering 3 private rooms
• Dar Zouina, beautiful 4-bedroom riad in a quiet alley in the medina
• Mama Lova Essaouira, charming boutique hotel with rooftop terrace
• Hostel La Smala, an ultra-trendy youth hostel offering dormitory beds and private double rooms

➜ Special mention for Heure Bleue Palacewhose terrace, enhanced by a heated swimming pool, offers a 360° panorama of the medina, the sea and the surrounding area. The price of a night in this luxurious Relais & Châteaux may not suit all pockets, but you can still dine here, enjoy a drink on the terrace or book a spa treatment.

La Corniche, by the beach

Lined with luxury hotels and upscale residences, Essaouira’s seafront is a sought-after district offering more modern accommodation with a continental feel. Despite its long, sandy beach, Essaouira is not a resort in the strict sense of the term, as the winds and waves make swimming unpleasant. The area is therefore particularly suited to water sports enthusiasts.

Apart from the main beach (Tagharte), the area is of little interest. Nevertheless, there are some great beachside cafés and restaurants, all less than a 20-minute walk from the medina.

Budget-wise, the most luxurious hotels are located on the beachfront, while the residential part of the district offers more affordable tourist rentals.

➜ Where to eat in and around Essaouira? Practical information and favorite addresses can be found in the article: “Where to eat in Essaouira: our favorite addresses“.

In the countryside outside Essaouira

As we move inland, the winds are less powerful and temperatures are warmer. Accommodation in Essaouira’s surrounding countryside is therefore the ideal choice for a stay in farniente mode.

Just drive along the P2201 runway, the R301 road or the N1 national highway to find numerous villas with swimming pools (rented by the room or in their entirety by private individuals via platforms such as Airbnb or Booking) and vast hotel estates nestled in veritable lush oases.

Here are a few ❤️ tips gleaned from our research:

• Le Jardin des Douars, for its exotic and sumptuous setting
• La Maison Flamingo, for its beautiful 5-bedroom villa and the 8-bedroom boutique hotel that has just opened next door.
• La Villa Baboucha, for its 6 rooms in ethnic chic style
• Dar Koum, for the relaxed ambience of its 4 beautiful rooms
• Baberrih, for its unique location on the magnificent beach of Tissa
• Villa Arkane, for the luxury and space of a 6-bedroom architect-designed house
• Dar Mandarine, for the charm of an authentic 4-bedroom Beldi house
• La Maison Bohème, for its 5 rooms amid olive and argan trees
• La Casa Hadid, for the sumptuous views and charm of this 4-bedroom traditional house.

Sidi Kaouki

25 kilometers south of Essaouira, the small village of Sidi Kaouki is a local and much less touristy alternative, offering seaside accommodation at very reasonable prices. Hotels, inns, ecolodges or homestays, there’s something for everyone!… However, it’s best to rent a car if you want to enjoy the medina and surrounding activities.

A selection of addresses ❤️

• La Maison des Sables, a large 6-bedroom villa set on a 2.5-hectare estate with a 360° view of the surrounding area
• Le Hameau des Cascades, comprising 2 independent houses (8 rooms in all) set in a 5000m² garden
• La Villa Blanca, offering 4 rooms in the middle of argan tree fields, close to Sidi Kaouki beach.
• Mellow Beach House, 7-bedroom eco-responsible house in the hills above Sidi Kaouki
• La Mouette et les Dromadaires, a confidential address offering 4 double rooms with a sea view, without wifi.

Diabat

A few kilometers south of Essaouira, Diabat is a tiny village famous for having welcomed Jimi Hendrix in the 1970s. With the exception of Café Jimi Hendrix, the number of establishments in the village is fairly limited. On the heights bordering the Golf de Mogador, the Sofitel hotel offers accommodation in rooms or private villas.

Just across the street, theTangaro Inn offers 19 rooms and suites in a peaceful, authentic setting. It was in this little haven of peace that we set down our suitcases for a week ☀️

Although located outside Essaouira, Tangaro is just a few minutes’ drive from Tagharte beach and the medina. It takes 20 minutes to reach Sidi Kaouki. As for golf, just cross the street.

The double rooms offer all the necessary comforts, without TV or air conditioning (some lack a little storage 😅). The hearty breakfast is served on the large central patio, under the trees and umbrellas. Around the swimming pool, deckchairs, cushions and several tables make for a quiet afternoon away from the hustle and bustle of the medina. A reasonably priced address for lovers of charm and authenticity 😍